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Research on mixing perfume from natural essential oils - 2

France has been a leader and pioneer in this field. We can see that this country is now considered the land of famous perfume brands.

Not everyone loves perfume, it depends on each person's perception and senses. We need to know the history, knowledge, and culture that people create.


But nowadays perfume is a very popular product with everyone, it gives the user a sense of confidence when communicating.


Maybe you are interested!

b. Classification

Perfume concentration is a measure of how many scent molecules are mixed into the alcohol layer that makes up the fragrance.


Many perfume users still mistakenly think that perfume means 100% aromatic essences from the core ingredients of the fragrance without knowing that it must also be mixed with alcohol and other compounds with a certain formula. [8]


The difference is simply in

place

they have ratio

Other essential oil ingredients

The higher the amount of essential oil, the longer the scent lasts. The highest is in Perfume, then Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette and finally Eau de Cologne.

Based on proportions, perfumes are divided into:


Figure 1. 3 ratios of essential oils in perfume

Perfume (Extrait) or Extrait de parfum : with an essential oil content of 20-40%, this is the most expensive and rarest type of perfume because the concentration of essential oils is very high, meaning the scent is very strong and long-lasting.


Eau De Perfume (EDP): with essential oil content from 1220%, the most concentrated. This type of perfume is mainly for women, with high concentration of essential oil, passionate and long lasting scent. This is a popular type of perfume today, suitable for use in dry climates or cold seasons.


Eau De Toilette (EDT): contains 512% essential oils. The most popular type of perfume today.

on the world

world, with price

affordable and

Average scent quality. Diverse in design, type or manufacturer. This is a perfume with a light scent, quite long lasting, and is for both men and women.


Eau De Cologne (EDC) or Eau De

Fraiche : only 24% essential oil; Trademark

trademark (reg. trademark): 'Original Eau de Cologne' First born in the city of Cologne, Germany, then spread throughout the world


Figure 1.4 Perfume classification

world. Light scent, poor scent retention, suitable for "average" budgets. [8]


c. Uses of perfume

In addition to creating a pleasant scent and increasing the attractiveness of the human body, perfume also has a number of other useful benefits such as:

Helps sober up : Essential oils contain chemical compounds that help clear themind.

pleasant, so it helps to stay awake when the body is tired.

Relax the mind: Essential oils have a mild sedative effect .

Prevent and treatmosquito bites : Essential oils contain volatile compounds that inhibit the activity of insects such asfliesandmosquitoes .


Reduce body odor: Essential oils have avery pleasant scent , helping to overpower body odor. [3 ]


1.2 Raw materials for perfume production

1 Selecting ingredients

The choice of ingredients to make a fragrance depends on the intended use, the types of products that need to be scented and its application. For perfumes, it needs to have fragrant, seductive and long-lasting characteristics.

Diverse and abundant raw materials are mainly divided into 2 types:

+ Natural ingredients


Perfume fragrances can be

is an extract from

plant or animal

Basic botanicals include star anise, cardamom, cedar, eucalyptus, frankincense, geranium, jasmine, lavender, lemon, clove, lily of the valley, magnolia, moss, neroli, orange, patchouli, pine, raspberry, rose, sage, sandalwood, lily, vanilla, violet and ylang-ylang.


The basic animal products used in perfume production include musk.

from male musk deer, ambergris from wild fish, powder

crab

two

glass and civet. All

used as an aphrodisiac and at the same time adds an indescribable mystery to the scent


+ Synthetic materials

Synthetic flavoring is the use of synthetic flavors such as:

Lilac is formulated primarily from phenylethylalcohol.

weak on the constituents: terpineol, hydroxylcitronellal and

Rose is built mainly on the constituents: phenylethylalcohol and geraniol. Jasmin with the main constituents: amyl cinnamic, aldehyde and benzyl acetate.

2 Natural Flavors

1.2.2.1 Essential oils

Main natural flavor


derived from essential oils. Plants with essential oils

widely distributed in nature. Statistical results show that there are about 2500 plant species containing essential oils.


Essential oils are aromatic or scented substances found in certain plants.

parts of plants

(seeds, roots, tubers, bark, flowers, leaves,

essential oil plants include about 3000 species, of which 150-200 species are of industrial significance.

Essential oils are found in the


Figure 1.5 Natural essential oils

The raw materials above come in very different concentrations, which can range from parts per million to parts per hundred, and the essential oils are relatively volatile.

Essential oils are concentrated in several families such as Apiaceae, Asteraceae, Lamiaceae, Camphoraceae, Myrtle, Citrus, and Ginger. The amount of essential oils in plants depends on climate and soil conditions.

Trees growing in tropical regions have larger oil reserves than trees growing in temperate regions. Even in

One tree, the composition and amount of essential oil in different parts are also different.

In addition, the amount of essential oil obtained also depends on the conditions, methods of harvesting, preservation and extraction.

Regarding the distribution of essential oils, there are especially many in the camphor family, the mint family, the citrus family, the myrtle family, and the umbelliferae family. Essential oils are found in different parts of the plant, such as in flowers (rose, jasmine, orange, lemon...); in leaves (eucalyptus, mint, basil...); in bark (cinnamon); in trunks (sandalwood, peru...); in roots (vetiver, ginger, turmeric, ligusticum...). Essential oil content

The essential oil content in different plants is also very different: rose essential oil content is about 0.25%; mint essential oil content is about 1%; star anise and clove bud essential oil content can reach 5% and 15% respectively. [1]


1.2.2 Origin and development of essential oils



Figure 1.6 Origin of essential oil development

Essential oils have long been used by species.

known since time immemorial

ancient people knew and

Use plants with essential oils

in dried form, middle period

ancient

century

15 stars

oil is increasingly popular

variable, word

position

From the 15th to the 17th century essential oils were used to scent hair and skin, for medicinal purposes, and in people's daily lives.[4]

From the 17th to the 19th century, essential oils were widely used for cosmetics, medicine and in industry on a wider scale. From the 20th century to the early years of the 21st century, along with the progress of mankind and the progress of science and technology, the essential oil production industry has gradually developed, essential oils have become a

indispensable product in human life and widely used

in industries such as: flavors, food, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals.

Chemical composition of essential oils: Hydrocarbons (monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes), alcohols (Menthol - found in peppermint essential oil, borneol - in orange, lavender, fir, camphor essential oils...), phenols and ethephenols, aldehydes, ketones, esters, other compounds such as

aromatic amino acids, lactones, oxide compounds such as eucalyptol, sulfur-containing compounds. [3]


 Physical properties of essential oils

At room temperature, essential oils are liquid, except for some special cases such as menthol, camphor... which are solid.

Essential oils are almost insoluble in water and easily evaporated, so essential oils can be extracted by steam distillation. Essential oils are very slightly soluble in water, but dissolve well in

in alcohol and organic solvents, partially soluble in alkaline solutions...

Most essential oils are colorless or pale yellow, some are colored, such as cinnamon essential oil which is dark brown. Essential oils often have a spicy and pungent taste. [3]

The specific gravity of essential oils is usually around 0.85 – 0.95; some essential oils are heavier than water such as basil essential oil, clove essential oil. Specific gravity varies according to chemical composition. If the essential oil is mainly composed of terpenic hydrocarbons, the specific gravity is low.

Essential oils containing oxygenated compounds or aromatics have a higher density.

Essential oils usually have a refractive index of about 1.45 - 1.56. The refractive index is high or low depending on the components of the substances contained in the essential oil, whether they are saturated, unsaturated or aromatic. If the essential oil has components with many double bonds, it has a high refractive index.

Since essential oils are mixtures, there is no specific boiling point. The boiling point of essential oils varies depending on the compound composition. For example, terpene compounds have a boiling point of 150 – 160oC, sesquiterpene compounds have a higher boiling point, around 250 – 280oC, and polyterpene compounds have a boiling point above 300oC. [3]

 Chemical properties

When essential oils are affected by temperature, light, air, and water, they are easily oxidized and can be partially plasticized. Alcohol in essential oils is oxidized into aldehyde, and aldehyde turns into acid.

Double bonded compounds are easily oxidized or participate in addition reactions. Ketone and aldehyde compounds are easily oxidized to form resins in the presence of alkali.

1.2.2.2 Aromatic resin

Figure 1.7 Myrrh

Natural resins include physiological resins that flow

out of

natural

trees and

Pathological sap oozing from tree wounds. There are many types of trees that have sap.

fragrant as pine, pine

Melaleuca, agarwood...however

have some

kind like

information

must be pricked into the tree to obtain a lot of resin. Aromatic resins are divided into the following types:

Plastic is an amorphous solid, at room temperature it is hard, when heated it will soften, it cannot be extracted by distillation.

Oil resin is a mixture of resin and essential oil, at room temperature it is in a semi-soft state.

liquid, such as

pine resin... can

collect the vapor of the oil resin by

steam distillation method


Bombs are oil resins containing a lot of benzoic and cinnamic acids in free and combined forms, such as tolu bomb, peru bomb...[1]

Chemical composition: Aromatic resins contain components including groups of alcohols, aldehydes, acids, and esters. Resins include many compounds with complex structures formed by polymerization or complete oxidation of essential oils. Therefore, the composition of aromatic resins often includes many complex rings.

Physicochemical properties: Aromatic resins are amorphous colored substances with a fragrant smell. When the temperature increases, the resin softens, becomes transparent or foams. Aromatic resins are insoluble in water, soluble in alcohol, the solubility of the resin varies depending on the organic solvent.

1.2.2.3Animal aromatic compounds

Some animals have hormone glands that secrete aromatic substances, such as whales and weasels.

Fragrance, deer... These aromatic compounds are extracted for products.

used in cosmetics

Fragrance : natural musk​​​

extracted from the sac of

musk deer

male. musk sac

have shape

round, flat, covered with hair. Pouch

contains about 3050 grams of musk

Fragrance. When fresh, musk is in

thick, pungent smelling state

when diluted to concentration

2 will emit smoke.

10


Musk contains 0.5 - 2% essential oil.

oil in which the active ingredient is

Figure 1.8 Musk

muscon. Musk is an excellent fixative.[1]

Civet oil : Secreted from African civets, contains 0.1% scatol and 2.5 – 3.5 % civetton .

Civet absolute : This type is taken from civet cats living in Ethiopia, has a foul smell, when diluted it will have an animal smell and this smell is very strong, used in high-class perfumes. Castoreum: This type is taken from castor fiiber weasels or extracted from beavers living in Canadian and Siberian lakes. Castoreum has a pungent smell, people often use it in the form of castoreum extract, has a leathery scent, when diluted it has a sweet smell, used in

used as a fixative.

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